Hey everybody,
I sold my DRRI and I am in the market for something with more headroom for my pedlolz. I haven't been too up-to-date with amps nowadays so any and all recommendations are welcome..
I had a line on a Soul-O 45 but the reverb was fudged and it was a pretty far drive from me/unaccommodating seller. However, there's a Mesa 5:50 an hr from me that I may have to check out.
The amp doesn't have to be new, in fact i'd prefer used so I can save some cash.
Additionally, If you've got an amp that you're looking to sell that fits the criteria, shoot me a PM w/ an email I can get back to you at.
Also, I'm hoping to spend at most $1,100.
What say ye?!?
Shop around for a Silverface Vibrolux Reverb. I scored one for $1,200 not long ago.
That's assuming you like the fender sound.
If your ability to be patient allows you to save up a little more, I'd spend around 1500 to 2000 on a vintage Fender as long as you can be certain the transformers aren't shot. We can help you revive it if you're willing to spend a few hundred more on parts.
Congrats on selling the DRRI!
You can probably guess I am going to suggest an MKIII :D Loving mine, massive headroom on the first channel and nothing touches the lead channel (the closest thing I got to the lead channel was using a Boss PQ4 as a midrange boost).
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on May 31, 2012, 10:35:07 PM
Congrats on selling the DRRI!
You can probably guess I am going to suggest an MKIII :D Loving mine, massive headroom on the first channel and nothing touches the lead channel (the closest thing I got to the lead channel was using a Boss PQ4 as a midrange boost).
I've been meaning to tell you, when I played through a DRRI back in 2003 as I was graduating from college I used an equalizer at the end of my effects chain to give a midrange boost. This reply is kind of an aside but I just had to mention it as I found it kind of funny that you did the same thing.
Lol - great minds ;)
Probably a better option for a Fender than trying to do a midrange mod unless your technically inclined yourself. More and more I think of Trey's 'gain staging' as midrange staging.
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on May 31, 2012, 11:16:05 PM
More and more I think of Trey's 'gain staging' as midrange staging.
I think I know what you mean. I think of his midrange boost, or "staging," as just another gain stage. There's really nothing else to do when removing the vibrato circuit other than to add another gain stage.
Yea, I wouldn't know what else is possible after taking out vibrato.
I guess I just think of the staging or use of TS9's more, or at least as much, about their midrange as the overdrive. I find that even rolling back my volume, I feel the midrange is less pronounced. And I also think you can get some great, powerful, soaring leads without a ton of overdrive - something like Stash is not extremely distorted, but still powerful and that is more about boosting the midrange (I have been using the clean TS, guitar volume maxed or close with the Mesa lead channel, which cuts the highs that really let you hear the overdrive, but adds mids that are smooth and clear so I find it sounds cleaner than it is). Obviously some leads sound better more distorted and something like Chalkdust Torture wouldn't be the same if the guitar was clean, but I just think that building levels of intensity (aside from tonal dissonance) in Trey's music is more about a changes in the amount of midrange than overdrive, or at least it plays an equal part.
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on June 01, 2012, 12:08:05 AM
Yea, I wouldn't know what else is possible after taking out vibrato.
I guess I just think of the staging or use of TS9's more, or at least as much, about their midrange as the overdrive. I find that even rolling back my volume, I feel the midrange is less pronounced. And I also think you can get some great, powerful, soaring leads without a ton of overdrive - something like Stash is not extremely distorted, but still powerful and that is more about boosting the midrange (I have been using the clean TS, guitar volume maxed or close with the Mesa lead channel, which cuts the highs that really let you hear the overdrive, but adds mids that are smooth and clear so I find it sounds cleaner than it is). Obviously some leads sound better more distorted and something like Chalkdust Torture wouldn't be the same if the guitar was clean, but I just think that building levels of intensity (aside from tonal dissonance) in Trey's music is more about a changes in the amount of midrange than overdrive, or at least it plays an equal part.
On the subject of thinking ts-9 as midrange staging, I've found that if you talk to the folks who work for Analog Mike, they'll tell you the Silver option contributes to a more scooped midrange. Now, I don't know how much of that is actually true. In the ten years I have bought various things from them I've learned they put forth some pretty brilliant marketing schemes. At any rate, you might want to try a ts-9 modified to 808 specs without the so-called transparency proffered by the Silver option.
Quote from: cactuskeeb on June 01, 2012, 12:24:53 AM
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on June 01, 2012, 12:08:05 AM
Yea, I wouldn't know what else is possible after taking out vibrato.
I guess I just think of the staging or use of TS9's more, or at least as much, about their midrange as the overdrive. I find that even rolling back my volume, I feel the midrange is less pronounced. And I also think you can get some great, powerful, soaring leads without a ton of overdrive - something like Stash is not extremely distorted, but still powerful and that is more about boosting the midrange (I have been using the clean TS, guitar volume maxed or close with the Mesa lead channel, which cuts the highs that really let you hear the overdrive, but adds mids that are smooth and clear so I find it sounds cleaner than it is). Obviously some leads sound better more distorted and something like Chalkdust Torture wouldn't be the same if the guitar was clean, but I just think that building levels of intensity (aside from tonal dissonance) in Trey's music is more about a changes in the amount of midrange than overdrive, or at least it plays an equal part.
On the subject of thinking ts-9 as midrange staging, I've found that if you talk to the folks who work for Analog Mike, they'll tell you the Silver option contributes to a more scooped midrange. Now, I don't know how much of that is actually true. In the ten years I have bought various things from them I've learned they put forth some pretty brilliant marketing schemes. At any rate, you might want to try a ts-9 modified to 808 specs without the so-called transparency proffered by the Silver option.
Scooped sounds like a hyperbolic way to say it, but I think I understand where that is coming from - the Silver opens up the bass a bit - not as much as some other boutique clones or mods - but that can draw away from that smack-in-the-middle midrange I suppose. To me it sounds warmer rather than nasal (as some TS variants I have tried sound) . To me it sounds like the low-mids are fuller, while some of the very low end and the top end are still rolled off. I could see how this might be less than ideal on a Fender thats already scooped though (and tends to have loose bass), but the Mesa I think would cut on its own ;)
I have been using an SRB808 2in1 with voiced to be as close to vintage TS 808>9 as possible. It is great, but I am so used to the Silvers, they have been my main drive for a few years, so I think I am going to keep the Silvers. Maybe my mind will change if I find some true vintage ones or get a chance to try the 808 mod, but I am not unhappy with the Silvers currently.
Quote from: picture_of_nectar on May 31, 2012, 10:09:30 PM
Shop around for a Silverface Vibrolux Reverb. I scored one for $1,200 not long ago.
That's assuming you like the fender sound.
I LOVE the Fender sound, Rob Compa from Dopapod rocks a SFVR and I think he's got great tone. There's a 1971 at Matt's Music for $1199 I'm gonna check into.
cactuskeeb - What should I look for to determine the OT or PT is shot? Rust?
^ Best amp I have played for the $.
Yeah I'd say to go for the SFVR as well. That may actually be my next vintage amp purchase.
Quote from: fulltone1989 on June 01, 2012, 08:18:48 AM
cactuskeeb - What should I look for to determine the OT or PT is shot? Rust?
No, rust is definitely not an indicator that the transformer is bad. If you're buying one you're able to test out -- that is to say, not off ebay -- just play it for at least 45 minutes to an hour. Ideally, you want it to really kind of settle in to a nice, smooth, warm sound after about thirty five minutes or so. Listen for random noises and if you hear something suspicious, swap out the preamp tubes beginning in the first two stages, and see how things change, if at all. Obviously, to do this you will have to have brought some with you; ones that you know are good (as non-microphonic as possible is the best choice in this case, even though on-the-verge-of-death, microphonic-as-fuck sometimes sound the best). If you have some quick and dirty device to measure and adjust the bias, like a Weber Bias Rite, I'd bring that as well, and know already what your intended bias setting will be based on the particular amp you're trying out. It would be a great idea to have some old RCA power tubes -- ones that you're confident are in good working order -- to throw in so that you can push the bias well above what most internet bias calculators characterize as "hot."
If you're buying off a site like ebay, sight-unseen, just ask. The vast majority of sellers often will go so far as to overstate any apparent defects, simply because their business quite literally depends on their reputation/feedback rating.
Quote from: cactuskeeb on June 01, 2012, 09:02:13 PM
Quote from: fulltone1989 on June 01, 2012, 08:18:48 AM
cactuskeeb - What should I look for to determine the OT or PT is shot? Rust?
No, rust is definitely not an indicator that the transformer is bad. If you're buying one you're able to test out -- that is to say, not off ebay -- just play it for at least 45 minutes to an hour. Ideally, you want it to really kind of settle in to a nice, smooth, warm sound after about thirty five minutes or so. Listen for random noises and if you hear something suspicious, swap out the preamp tubes beginning in the first two stages, and see how things change, if at all. Obviously, to do this you will have to have brought some with you; ones that you know are good (as non-microphonic as possible is the best choice in this case, even though on-the-verge-of-death, microphonic-as-fuck sometimes sound the best). If you have some quick and dirty device to measure and adjust the bias, like a Weber Bias Rite, I'd bring that as well, and know already what your intended bias setting will be based on the particular amp you're trying out. It would be a great idea to have some old RCA power tubes -- ones that you're confident are in good working order -- to throw in so that you can push the bias well above what most internet bias calculators characterize as "hot."
If you're buying off a site like ebay, sight-unseen, just ask. The vast majority of sellers often will go so far as to overstate any apparent defects, simply because their business quite literally depends on their reputation/feedback rating.
Great advice, but I read your post a bit late. I went down to my local GC for shits n grins and I found a clean Mesa 5:50 1x12 for $850. I played it for an hour and got both channels to "work together" in a way. ch 1 as a base clean w/ pedals and ch 2 as a grittier boost. Additionally, I was without an amp so I took it home. Although I am not entirely set on keeping this guy the 30 day money back deal is the one thing GC really has going for themselves. It's a 6L6 amp and it's really nice getting back into these types of amps. I personally prefer that tube over the 6V6 or EL34.
Anyways, I have 30 days to fiddle with it and try it out with the band and in the meantime I can look for a SFVR.
6L6's are pretty sweet - powerful and articulate. I like the EL34's on the MKIII, particularly for the compression n'at, but the Simul-Class mode has benefits. I find the EL34's to be warmer though.
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on June 02, 2012, 01:44:47 AM
6L6's are pretty sweet - powerful and articulate. I like the EL34's on the MKIII, particularly for the compression n'at, but the Simul-Class mode has benefits. I find the EL34's to be warmer though.
Yeah I had a nomad with EL34s that was a sweet amp. i thought the Mkiii had 6L6s too for some reason...
The MKIII does have 6L6's - at least two, up to four. The 60-100 watt versions (not Simul-Class) can run 2 6L6's at 60 watts, 4 at 100watts. The Simul Class amps can run 2 EL34's at 15watts (they call it class A) or 2 EL34's along with 2 6L6's for 75watts (15watts plus 60 watts) in simul class mod. Apparently some later simul class amps run the EL34s in pentode (rather than triode like earlier models) mode which adds an additional 10watts (so it is 25watt to 85watt). Finally, it is also safe to run all 6L6's instead of the 2 EL34's (4 6L6's) in a simul-class amp.
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on June 02, 2012, 10:34:40 AM
The MKIII does have 6L6's - at least two, up to four. The 60-100 watt versions (not Simul-Class) can run 2 6L6's at 60 watts, 4 at 100watts. The Simul Class amps can run 2 EL34's at 15watts (they call it class A) or 2 EL34's along with 2 6L6's for 75watts (15watts plus 60 watts) in simul class mod. Apparently some later simul class amps run the EL34s in pentode (rather than triode like earlier models) mode which adds an additional 10watts (so it is 25watt to 85watt). Finally, it is also safe to run all 6L6's instead of the 2 EL34's (4 6L6's) in a simul-class amp.
Heady, since you've been doing alot of research on the MKIII speaker/tubes/power ratings lately, maybe you can advise me on this. I'm pretty sure at least one of my EL34's in mine is bad as I'm getting some pops and crackles when I'm in class A mode, but when I go with simulclass (which I happen to like better anyway), it goes away. I'm considering replacing the 34's with 6L6's, will this make the amp even louder? Or what kind of effect will it have on my tone anyway? If I do this and strike a really heavy G power chord across all the strings, will this cause that butterfly in Japan to flap it's wings harder, thus causing Dorothy's house to fly across Wonderland? Well maybe that last question wasn't as serious, but I'd love to hear your thoughts on the serious stuff.
Lol - all I really know anything about are butterflies in Japan.
To be honest, I really don't know the answer to your question. The only thing I have come across is that 6L6's in that position will burn out faster than EL34's.
My assumptions is that the amp would be louder, however I suspect that the 6L6's would be running in triode mode and thus wouldn't be as loud as a non-simul-class amp which is rated at 100watts with 4 6L6's running.
Anyway, sorry I don't have solid answers, but that is weird it only happens in 'Class A' since Simul-Class also uses the EL34's....
Some good news on the amp search - Soul-O 45 man called me back and said the amp was in for servicing at DST in Boston (boutique amp builder, awesome plexi clones) and I could demo it there once it get's a clean bill of health. Its still cheaper than the Express 5:50 and it fitted the bill better as well.
;D
Very cool man - probably rare to find something like that accessible for a trial run!
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on June 03, 2012, 05:03:41 PM
Very cool man - probably rare to find something like that accessible for a trial run!
My thoughts exactly! I've been chatting with the guy for the past week and I was a bit apprehensive on driving 2+ hrs to demo the amp at his home and I'm psyched that it's getting looked at by a knowledgeable tech. I'll hopefully check it out this weekend after the Worcester run!
Just bought a 1965 Twin for $1,100. Pretty stoked.
Quote from: picture_of_nectar on June 04, 2012, 12:22:18 PM
Just bought a 1965 Twin for $1,100. Pretty stoked.
Sweet! Were you the one on TGP placing a WTB for a '65?
Alternatively, I found a '74 SFVR near me thats been blackfaced that I'm gonna go try out. Whats a good price to offer?
Quote from: picture_of_nectar on June 04, 2012, 12:22:18 PM
Just bought a 1965 Twin for $1,100. Pretty stoked.
Congrats!
Quote from: picture_of_nectar on June 04, 2012, 12:22:18 PM
Just bought a 1965 Twin for $1,100. Pretty stoked.
Sorry to call upon you once again to step out on a limb, but I would appreciate it if you could snap photos of the inside as well as underside (filter caps).
Quote from: picture_of_nectar on June 04, 2012, 12:22:18 PM
Just bought a 1965 Twin for $1,100. Pretty stoked.
Awesome, I was GASing for one when I had a Gilmour-esc rig going!
Quote from: fulltone1989 on June 04, 2012, 01:34:57 PM
Quote from: picture_of_nectar on June 04, 2012, 12:22:18 PM
Just bought a 1965 Twin for $1,100. Pretty stoked.
Sweet! Were you the one on TGP placing a WTB for a '65?
Alternatively, I found a '74 SFVR near me thats been blackfaced that I'm gonna go try out. Whats a good price to offer?
No, but I did find it on there. I am going to take the guts out and replace it into my Twin RI Head + Cab unit. I have been looking for a beat up BF Twin so I wasn't paying an arm and a leg for some museum piece.
Cactus i'll snap pics for you when I pop it out and toss it into this baby:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ow67ow1PvJo/TvTOxuBUoWI/AAAAAAAAId0/Sk19lc64n1c/s640/Twin.JPG)
I also decided to get a new, er old guitar while I was at it...
(http://www.leftyvintageguitars.com/images/static/PA290007.jpg)
Seems the market price for a SFVR is around $1,200-1,400 depending on how clean it is and if the tubes are vintage. Check and make sure it has been serviced in the last decade...really cool amps, probably the most versatile of the old Fender line, more headroom then a Deluxe but not as loud and boomy as a Twin, nice breakup tones with those 2x10"s.
Look at that beautiful strat!
1965 closet queen!
Quote from: fulltone1989 on June 05, 2012, 02:39:25 PM
Quote from: picture_of_nectar on June 05, 2012, 01:06:59 PM
1965 closet queen!
double nice!
I found TWO SFVR's actually, first is a 1974 that's been blackfaced and was serviced a year ago. 2nd is a 71 that I don't know a thing about. The owner is a TGP'er so I hope they took good care of it. 74 is $100 cheaper and both are within that $1200 range. In terms of clean volume, how much more did it have than a deluxe? Good platform for dirt pedals?
Quite a bit more clean headroom then the Deluxe. I only used a TubeScreamer and a Timmy, but they sounded great with the VR.
Here is some good info:
http://fenderguru.com/amps/vibrolux
Quote from: picture_of_nectar on June 05, 2012, 02:51:23 PM
Quite a bit more clean headroom then the Deluxe. I only used a TubeScreamer and a Timmy, but they sounded great with the VR.
Here is some good info:
http://fenderguru.com/amps/vibrolux
Great link, these mods look awesome
Picture, while I await your gut shots, I thought I would (re-)post some photos of a silverface twin both modified and restored by Carruth.
Edit: I should qualify the above by saying that he's modified the first tone stack but everything after, component-wise, was replaced with restoration in mind.
(http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg29/cactuskeeb/carruth0.jpg)
(http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg29/cactuskeeb/carruth1.jpg)
(http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg29/cactuskeeb/carruth3.jpg)
(http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg29/cactuskeeb/carruth5.jpg)
Hey bro, amp is in the mail, and I'm gunna be out of town for a week. I won't forget though.
Cactus, when did you get this amp to Bill? That's sweet!