(http://dogoneblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/guitar-rack-660x440.jpg)
Found on google, I assume this is recent.
A few questions, some of you may have already documented the the answers for.
1. Does anyone know what effect the Microverb is set on?
2. How often (or when) does Trey use the Microverb?
3. Is the Microverb Trey's primary Reverb?
4. Does Trey use any Reverb from his Mark III? If so, what setting?
Thanks!
1. The microverb is set to reverse reverb. The exact settings are posted around the site somewhere, but it sounds way different on a Mesa vs a Fender, so when I had one, I always changed the settings depending on which amp I was using.
2. To the best of my knowledge, Trey uses the Micro on leads only. It sounds like a funky tape/analog delay - dark, washed out. Its just a single reverse repeat of the note just played.
3. Trey does not use the Micro like a reverb - as I mentioned above, it sounds more like a funky tape/analog delay.
4. Over the summer there was a video of Trey on stage talking about his rig. During the video, the camera sweeps over his Mesa and I nabbed a couple (somewhat blurry) still shots. The amp's settings were all marked with blue gaffers tape including the reverb (last knob before the GEQ sliders since Trey uses a 'long' head):
(http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z342/Jon_Weingarden/Screenshot2013-01-22at104337PM_zpsf6b4d00b.png)
Looks like it says "3" to me. That setting would sound very very mild when standing in the room with a MKIII, but louder when the amp is close-miced. I have mine set on "8" right now. His setting would just kind of soften the edge of his sound and natural reverb from the venue would fill in the rest.
He uses the micro verb for that reason cool reverse reverb he uses as described above. but what about the other 2 alesis units in that rack? I believe they're nanoverbs? what tone does he use those for?
I really don't believe he uses any of those units for his primary reverb as they're in the "dig crap" loop on his Bradshaw box so I would think these units stay out of his signal paths unless being used for a specific use:, like to reverse reverb effect.
but what other effects is he getting from the other two????
Quote from: jenkins on February 05, 2014, 05:29:35 AM
He uses the micro verb for that reason cool reverse reverb he uses as described above. but what about the other 2 alesis units in that rack? I believe they're nanoverbs? what tone does he use those for?
I really don't believe he uses any of those units for his primary reverb as they're in the "dig crap" loop on his Bradshaw box so I would think these units stay out of his signal paths unless being used for a specific use:, like to reverse reverb effect.
but what other effects is he getting from the other two????
The nano's are, to the best of my knowledge, nothing more than space fillers.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Correct me if I am wrong, but if I'm not mistaken his Mark III is setup as follows. The blue tape says it all.
Volume 8.5
Treble 5.1 (pulled)
Bass 1.8
Middle 5.5
Master ?
Lead Drive 3
Lead Master 6.5 (pulled)
Reverb 7 (def not 3)
Also, his EQ is off.
Quote from: express50express on February 05, 2014, 01:20:08 PM
Correct me if I am wrong, but if I'm not mistaken his Mark III is setup as follows. The blue tape says it all.
Volume 8.5
Treble 5.1 (pulled)
Bass 1.8
Middle 5.5
Master ?
Lead Drive 3
Lead Master 6.5 (pulled)
Reverb 7 (def not 3)
Good eye - it probably does say "7" for reverb.
I think I see a "P" between the volume setting (8.5) and the treble setting (5.1), as well as after the treble setting. I pretty sure the bass knob is not pulled, does this mean the volume knob is pulled? That is essentially a bright switch. I have mine pulled right now, but I change it depending on the setting I'm playing in and settings on the amp. Or maybe has has a "P" on each side setting number for a knob thats pulled? Ie., "P5.1P" indicating the treble knob is pulled and "P6P" indicating the lead master is pulled.
I think the Master Volume setting says "1.95" basically meaning just barely below 2.
It does look like the EQ switch is set to "off." However, there are arrows drawn on the gaffers tape above it that I think coordinate with the EQ and Half/Full Power switch (obviously they don't indicate settings for the power and standby switch). If so, it indicates the amp is set to half power (2 6L6), but then the arrow that would indicate the EQ switch setting points up. The problem is that its a 3-way switch (up is auto, or automatically on when the lead channel is turned on, middle is off, down is always on). If it is set to auto, combined with the treble knob and lead master knobs being pulled (upper mid-boost and treble boost, respectively, for the lead channel), that lead would be very light on bass and have quite of a bit of upper midrange.
Lastly, you can also see a small piece of gaffers tape near the back of the amp marking the Presence setting.
Great conversation on the Mark III Settings, we need to move this to a previous thread.
This is what I think is going on. I get he plays single coils a bit, but with humbuckers, this amp really wants you to pull volume and treble, low bass, and cranked mids.
Volume 8.5 (pulled)
Treble 5.1 (pulled)
Bass 1.8
Middle 5.5
Master 1.95 (as you said earlier, just under 2)
Lead Drive 3
Lead Master 6.5 (pulled)
Reverb 7
Presence 2.5 - total guess ;)
Half Power 2 x el34's.
I really think the EQ is in the off position. I've owned blue stripe, and that is the switch orientation I was familiar with. I currently own a Purple Stripe. Sold the Blue and regretted it, and had to have another!
Some think that Trey has the EQ set for Auto with an upside down V for a mid range boost when the Lead channel is engaged (i don't buy it). With his amp settings, adding that EQ setting to his leads would kill someone. He has so much mid range already from the amp, guitar, and a pair of tube-screamers, don't forget v30 speakers!!!!! , all of which are mid range monsters.
I've setup my boogie with these setting and it rocks. Also, it makes sense how his lead drive is set on 3. It gives him 2 x different baseline tones to flavor with TS9's. Or engage the lead channel for supper gain and chaos. Try these settings and turn the lead drive to 6.5 - 7 (that setting is what made this amp famous in the 80's).
Dying to know what his presence knob is set at. The presence knob is the most debated setting for early Mark's. Either love or hate it.
Quote from: express50express on February 05, 2014, 03:52:17 PM
Great conversation on the Mark III Settings, we need to move this to a previous thread.
This is what I think is going on. I get he plays single coils a bit, but with humbuckers, this amp really wants you to pull volume and treble, low bass, and cranked mids.
Volume 8.5 (pulled)
Treble 5.1 (pulled)
Bass 1.8
Middle 5.5
Master 1.95 (as you said earlier, just under 2)
Lead Drive 3
Lead Master 6.5 (pulled)
Reverb 7
Presence 2.5 - total guess ;)
Half Power 2 x el34's.
I really think the EQ is in the off position. I've owned blue stripe, and that is the switch orientation I was familiar with. I currently own a Purple Stripe. Sold the Blue and regretted it, and had to have another!
Some think that Trey has the EQ set for Auto with an upside down V for a mid range boost when the Lead channel is engaged (i don't buy it). With his amp settings, adding that EQ setting to his leads would kill someone. He has so much mid range already from the amp, guitar, and a pair of tube-screamers, don't forget v30 speakers!!!!! , all of which are mid range monsters.
I've setup my boogie with these setting and it rocks. Also, it makes sense how his lead drive is set on 3. It gives him 2 x different baseline tones to flavor with TS9's. Or engage the lead channel for supper gain and chaos. Try these settings and turn the lead drive to 6.5 - 7 (that setting is what made this amp famous in the 80's).
Dying to know what his presence knob is set at. The presence knob is the most debated setting for early Mark's. Either love or hate it.
I think presence at 2.5 is probably correctly. Above 3 adds noise and really an unnecessary amount of presence - will kill your ears!
I agree about the EQ given the other lead settings: pretty clean with the upper mid and treble boost. I find when its that clean, the pull knobs have a really strong effect and the GEQ would probably be overkill. However, he definitely sometimes changes other settings on the lead channel and I could imagine using the GEQ if he didn't have the knobs pulled, and/or if the lead channel was more dirty. But even without the pull knobs turned on or the EQ engaged, the lead channel has less bass than the normal channel (already more mid focused).
Trey's Mesa isn't Simul-Class, so his half power setting is 2 rather than 4 6L6's. He has 4 6L6 tubes in his Mesa.
I've been messing around with the R2 crunch (and overdrive lead channel) of my Mesa. A TS9>R2 sounds pretty sweet. I like cranking the bass up a bit more, gets a great 80's hard-rock tone.
Yes, my purple has el34's for half the power :)
What is yours setup with?
Quote from: express50express on February 05, 2014, 04:22:52 PM
Yes, my purple has el34's for half the power :)
What is yours setup with?
My amp has Simul-Class, so it has:
2x EL34 setting called (incorrectly) "Class A," which, IIRC, used to be described as 15w, but its more like a really loud 25-30w.
2x EL34 & 2x 6L6 called Simul-Class, which, IIRC used to be described as 75w, but I think its a good 80w.
My usual settings are close to the ones in the picture. I just tried the ones from the picture and still prefer my volume at 7 rather than 8.5.
Also, that lead setting is more distorted than I thought, especially with the volume at 8.5 rather than 7 (where I usually have it). Its hard to get his clean lead tone that way... I thought it sounded good with or without the GEQ set to auto (on for leads), but I'm also using an EVM12L.
Guys I don't think the Volume is pulled. If you copy the pic and blow it up you'll see the Treble and Lead Master both have a "p" on either side of their respective numbers, indicating those are to be pulled, but I don't think that first "p" is referring to the Volume.
I do think the Presence is 2.5, and also agree the reverb is set to 7.
I also have the Simul-Class version (EL34's and 6V6's) and I love this amp. Grab one if you ever have the opportunity. I've matched mine with a beautiful AO custom 2x12 and it's pure bliss.
i have a THD 2x12 cab loaded with a black shadow mc-90 and vintage 30. To my ears the Evm12l sounds much better. the highs and lows are much better balanced, and the boogie is easier to dial in with that speaker. plus, different boogie settings sound good. the celestion cab is the complete opposite. i have given up on it. it could be a bad speaker combination. i am thinking about pairing the evm12l with one of them, just not sure which one yet. i guess i could try both and let the ears judge :)
Quote from: Walker done done on February 05, 2014, 08:22:51 PM
Guys I don't think the Volume is pulled. If you copy the pic and blow it up you'll see the Treble and Lead Master both have a "p" on either side of their respective numbers, indicating those are to be pulled, but I don't think that first "p" is referring to the Volume.
I do think the Presence is 2.5, and also agree the reverb is set to 7.
I also have the Simul-Class version (EL34's and 6V6's) and I love this amp. Grab one if you ever have the opportunity. I've matched mine with a beautiful AO custom 2x12 and it's pure bliss.
did not think of that. you could be right. thanks. could you post a blown up picture?
Quote from: Walker done done on February 05, 2014, 08:22:51 PM
Guys I don't think the Volume is pulled. If you copy the pic and blow it up you'll see the Treble and Lead Master both have a "p" on either side of their respective numbers, indicating those are to be pulled, but I don't think that first "p" is referring to the Volume.
I do think the Presence is 2.5, and also agree the reverb is set to 7.
I also have the Simul-Class version (EL34's and 6V6's) and I love this amp. Grab one if you ever have the opportunity. I've matched mine with a beautiful AO custom 2x12 and it's pure bliss.
In some settings, the pull-bright on the volume knob makes a huge difference, in other settings, its really subtle. Maybe its a master volume thing, not sure... Tonight I tried it both push and pulled and it wasn't a huge difference. I think your probably right that the bright pull is not on, but I go back and forth on whether I use it: it adds a certain liveliness, but isn't as smooth.
PS - you mean 6L6 rather than 6V6, right?
(http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/shakedown_04092/image-1.jpg) (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/shakedown_04092/media/image-1.jpg.html)
(http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/shakedown_04092/image-2.jpg) (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/shakedown_04092/media/image-2.jpg.html)
(http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/shakedown_04092/image.jpg) (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/shakedown_04092/media/image.jpg.html)
Quote from: Walker done done on February 05, 2014, 08:55:46 PM
(http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/shakedown_04092/image-1.jpg) (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/shakedown_04092/media/image-1.jpg.html)
(http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/shakedown_04092/image-2.jpg) (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/shakedown_04092/media/image-2.jpg.html)
(http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/shakedown_04092/image.jpg) (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/shakedown_04092/media/image.jpg.html)
Nice!!!
Great stuff. Thanks for sharing! Case closed.
Heady, with the volume NOT pulled, that should cleanup the lead channel.
This thread is really really interesting for me! I was always curious what settings Trey was using. The thing that really sparked my interest are the 2 tube thing among others. I myself have a heavily modded Carvin x100b from 1990. I just recently pulled the 2 inner tubes out of the 4 and really saw a great improvement. Now with my amp it does have a 3 way power switch in the back (25%, 50%, 100%) I leave the power switch at 100% but physically pull 2 tubes. This cuts some volume which is great cause it is a very loud amp. But with this setup I believe you have to work out the tubes harder to get to a good volume where as at the same volume with 4 tubes in play, they aren't working as hard. I believe this is why I really like the amp with only 2 tubes in. The volume drop and the harder working tubes.
I have never owned a Mesa Mark 3, but when you guys (or Trey) use the power drop switch does it switch to just using 2 tubes? Or just cut the power and still utilize all 4 tubes? Would like to know cause I feel I got closer to Trey's lead tone with just 2 tubes in play.
If anyone is familiar with my amp and wants to know what mods I did here you go-
Changed the el34 to JAN-Philips 6L6WGB power tubes along with an external switch to change between el34 and 6l6's.
Installed an external trimpot for bias control.
GEQ mod- now works for "BOTH" channels
R6- changed to 19k
R11- changed to 523 ohms
R8- changed to 37k / 12k
C2- changed to 0.1uf
R13- added a 1200pf (lead treble bleed)
C14- changed to 390pf (reduced clean bright switch)
I use the bright switch on the clean channel so in order to get both channels close I reduced the value of the clean bright switch cap a little. I then installed a 0.0012 cap on R13 which was empty and makes the lead channel an always on bright switch. Couldn't be happier with the tone of this amp now!
OH and I use the Microverb in my effects loop and it sounds WAY better than in front!
Quote from: express50express on February 05, 2014, 08:27:10 PM
i have a THD 2x12 cab loaded with a black shadow mc-90 and vintage 30. To my ears the Evm12l sounds much better. the highs and lows are much better balanced, and the boogie is easier to dial in with that speaker. plus, different boogie settings sound good. the celestion cab is the complete opposite. i have given up on it. it could be a bad speaker combination. i am thinking about pairing the evm12l with one of them, just not sure which one yet. i guess i could try both and let the ears judge :)
I've used C90/CL80's, V30's, Golds, G12H30's, Golds........
I think I like the EV the most with the Mesa. I love how punchy that speaker is with the heavy magnet and flat cone. I really loved Golds too as far as the smooth, creamy timbre, but I didn't like the loss of articulation when the Alnico mag compressed (or the cost). The Weber Blue Dog just isn't the same. V30's are awesome, particularly live, but hard to handle sometime practicing in a bedroom - lots of upper mids. The CL80 is very balanced - has the Celestion mids without the Alnico compression, the V30 upper mid spike... but I gravitated toward the EV still probably because of the punchiness, the fullness in a 112, etc. I really liked combinations of a lot of those speakers in a 212, but couldn't fit it in my car easily enough and my Mesa 112 sounded better, fuller, bigger than my Avatar 212 anyway.
However, I tested the EV in my SFDR and preferred the CL80. I swapped the speakers back and forth about 5 times slowly cranking the volume on my DR from 3 on the dial all the way up to 10. I found the CL80 to be clearer and more focused with a smoother top-end and there was still plenty of treble on tap.
I always think you need to EQ the amp for the right feel etc and let the right speaker shape the rest.
Quote from: Helping Friendly on February 05, 2014, 09:05:23 PM
This thread is really really interesting for me! I was always curious what settings Trey was using. The thing that really sparked my interest are the 2 tube thing among others. I myself have a heavily modded Carvin x100b from 1990. I just recently pulled the 2 inner tubes out of the 4 and really saw a great improvement. Now with my amp it does have a 3 way power switch in the back (25%, 50%, 100%) I leave the power switch at 100% but physically pull 2 tubes. This cuts some volume which is great cause it is a very loud amp. But with this setup I believe you have to work out the tubes harder to get to a good volume where as at the same volume with 4 tubes in play, they aren't working as hard. I believe this is why I really like the amp with only 2 tubes in. The volume drop and the harder working tubes.
I have never owned a Mesa Mark 3, but when you guys (or Trey) use the power drop switch does it switch to just using 2 tubes? Or just cut the power and still utilize all 4 tubes? Would like to know cause I feel I got closer to Trey's lead tone with just 2 tubes in play.
If anyone is familiar with my amp and wants to know what mods I did here you go-
Changed the el34 to JAN-Philips 6L6WGB power tubes along with an external switch to change between el34 and 6l6's.
Installed an external trimpot for bias control.
GEQ mod- now works for "BOTH" channels
R6- changed to 19k
R11- changed to 523 ohms
R8- changed to 37k / 12k
C2- changed to 0.1uf
R13- added a 1200pf (lead treble bleed)
C14- changed to 390pf (reduced clean bright switch)
I use the bright switch on the clean channel so in order to get both channels close I reduced the value of the clean bright switch cap a little. I then installed a 0.0012 cap on R13 which was empty and makes the lead channel an always on bright switch. Couldn't be happier with the tone of this amp now!
OH and I use the Microverb in my effects loop and it sounds WAY better than in front!
The half-power or "Class A" setting basically turns off the other tubes EXCEPT pulling them changes the bias on the remaining tubes so they are running hotter. I believe its, in a technical sense, analogous to pulling the V1 tube in a Fender when using the reverb channel.
I always wanted to try one of those 'Zappa' amps. There was one for sale locally, but I didn't know the guy well enough to invite myself over to play it.
Thanks for posting your mods - I don't know enough about that amp or its circuit to know what they mean, but thats cool.
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on February 05, 2014, 09:10:58 PM
Quote from: Helping Friendly on February 05, 2014, 09:05:23 PM
This thread is really really interesting for me! I was always curious what settings Trey was using. The thing that really sparked my interest are the 2 tube thing among others. I myself have a heavily modded Carvin x100b from 1990. I just recently pulled the 2 inner tubes out of the 4 and really saw a great improvement. Now with my amp it does have a 3 way power switch in the back (25%, 50%, 100%) I leave the power switch at 100% but physically pull 2 tubes. This cuts some volume which is great cause it is a very loud amp. But with this setup I believe you have to work out the tubes harder to get to a good volume where as at the same volume with 4 tubes in play, they aren't working as hard. I believe this is why I really like the amp with only 2 tubes in. The volume drop and the harder working tubes.
I have never owned a Mesa Mark 3, but when you guys (or Trey) use the power drop switch does it switch to just using 2 tubes? Or just cut the power and still utilize all 4 tubes? Would like to know cause I feel I got closer to Trey's lead tone with just 2 tubes in play.
If anyone is familiar with my amp and wants to know what mods I did here you go-
Changed the el34 to JAN-Philips 6L6WGB power tubes along with an external switch to change between el34 and 6l6's.
Installed an external trimpot for bias control.
GEQ mod- now works for "BOTH" channels
R6- changed to 19k
R11- changed to 523 ohms
R8- changed to 37k / 12k
C2- changed to 0.1uf
R13- added a 1200pf (lead treble bleed)
C14- changed to 390pf (reduced clean bright switch)
I use the bright switch on the clean channel so in order to get both channels close I reduced the value of the clean bright switch cap a little. I then installed a 0.0012 cap on R13 which was empty and makes the lead channel an always on bright switch. Couldn't be happier with the tone of this amp now!
OH and I use the Microverb in my effects loop and it sounds WAY better than in front!
The half-power or "Class A" setting basically turns off the other tubes EXCEPT pulling them changes the bias on the remaining tubes so they are running hotter. I believe its, in a technical sense, analogous to pulling the V1 tube in a Fender when using the reverb channel.
I always wanted to try one of those 'Zappa' amps. There was one for sale locally, but I didn't know the guy well enough to invite myself over to play it.
Thanks for posting your mods - I don't know enough about that amp or its circuit to know what they mean, but thats cool.
The easiest, cheapest, and best mod on a twin is to just pull tubes.
Quote from: Helping Friendly on February 05, 2014, 09:05:23 PM
I have never owned a Mesa Mark 3, but when you guys (or Trey) use the power drop switch does it switch to just using 2 tubes? Or just cut the power and still utilize all 4 tubes? Would like to know cause I feel I got closer to Trey's lead tone with just 2 tubes in play.
If you cut to Class A, it cuts out the 2 inner tubes, which in mine are 6L6's, and leaves just the EL34's on. Class A is 60W, SimulClass is 100W. The manual says they don't recommending swapping the 34's with 6L6's but I may try it. I also may replace my speakers (Tone Tubby and an Eminence commonwealth) with V30's too. We'll see.
Quote from: express50express on February 05, 2014, 09:02:49 PM
Heady, with the volume NOT pulled, that should cleanup the lead channel.
Makes sense - boosting the treble with the knob pulled should push any of the channels a bit harder.
I have to admit, while I was messing with the setting tonight, I ended up spending too much time on the lead channel with the drive knob pretty high, pushed by a TS9. Smooth distortion and extremely biting/present with the lead channel pull-shit (treble knob) and pull-bright (lead master). I haven't brought my Mesa to jam with the guy I'm just starting a band with, but he plays a Mesa Mini Rec... I'm gonna feel bad when the lead channel on my 30-year-old, $900 amp kicks the ass of his new $2500 amp ;). Maybe I'll let him plug into my EVM12L.
Quote from: express50express on February 05, 2014, 09:14:50 PM
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on February 05, 2014, 09:10:58 PM
Quote from: Helping Friendly on February 05, 2014, 09:05:23 PM
This thread is really really interesting for me! I was always curious what settings Trey was using. The thing that really sparked my interest are the 2 tube thing among others. I myself have a heavily modded Carvin x100b from 1990. I just recently pulled the 2 inner tubes out of the 4 and really saw a great improvement. Now with my amp it does have a 3 way power switch in the back (25%, 50%, 100%) I leave the power switch at 100% but physically pull 2 tubes. This cuts some volume which is great cause it is a very loud amp. But with this setup I believe you have to work out the tubes harder to get to a good volume where as at the same volume with 4 tubes in play, they aren't working as hard. I believe this is why I really like the amp with only 2 tubes in. The volume drop and the harder working tubes.
I have never owned a Mesa Mark 3, but when you guys (or Trey) use the power drop switch does it switch to just using 2 tubes? Or just cut the power and still utilize all 4 tubes? Would like to know cause I feel I got closer to Trey's lead tone with just 2 tubes in play.
If anyone is familiar with my amp and wants to know what mods I did here you go-
Changed the el34 to JAN-Philips 6L6WGB power tubes along with an external switch to change between el34 and 6l6's.
Installed an external trimpot for bias control.
GEQ mod- now works for "BOTH" channels
R6- changed to 19k
R11- changed to 523 ohms
R8- changed to 37k / 12k
C2- changed to 0.1uf
R13- added a 1200pf (lead treble bleed)
C14- changed to 390pf (reduced clean bright switch)
I use the bright switch on the clean channel so in order to get both channels close I reduced the value of the clean bright switch cap a little. I then installed a 0.0012 cap on R13 which was empty and makes the lead channel an always on bright switch. Couldn't be happier with the tone of this amp now!
OH and I use the Microverb in my effects loop and it sounds WAY better than in front!
The half-power or "Class A" setting basically turns off the other tubes EXCEPT pulling them changes the bias on the remaining tubes so they are running hotter. I believe its, in a technical sense, analogous to pulling the V1 tube in a Fender when using the reverb channel.
I always wanted to try one of those 'Zappa' amps. There was one for sale locally, but I didn't know the guy well enough to invite myself over to play it.
Thanks for posting your mods - I don't know enough about that amp or its circuit to know what they mean, but thats cool.
The easiest, cheapest, and best mod on a twin is to just pull tubes.
Yep. I pulled V1 and two power tubes, modded the Bias Balance to a normal Bias pot and called it a day (when I had a Twin).
Quote from: Walker done done on February 05, 2014, 09:15:56 PM
Quote from: Helping Friendly on February 05, 2014, 09:05:23 PM
I have never owned a Mesa Mark 3, but when you guys (or Trey) use the power drop switch does it switch to just using 2 tubes? Or just cut the power and still utilize all 4 tubes? Would like to know cause I feel I got closer to Trey's lead tone with just 2 tubes in play.
If you cut to Class A, it cuts out the 2 inner tubes, which in mine are 6L6's, and leaves just the EL34's on. Class A is 60W, SimulClass is 100W. The manual says they don't recommending swapping the 34's with 6L6's but I may try it. I also may replace my speakers (Tone Tubby and an Eminence commonwealth) with V30's too. We'll see.
I think half power on a 4x 6L6 MKIII is 60w. I think with EL34's its 25-30w, according to Mesa when I emailed them about this after I got my MKIII because some literature says Class is 15w!
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on February 05, 2014, 09:16:40 PM
Quote from: express50express on February 05, 2014, 09:02:49 PM
Heady, with the volume NOT pulled, that should cleanup the lead channel.
Makes sense - boosting the treble with the knob pulled should push any of the channels a bit harder.
I have to admit, while I was messing with the setting tonight, I ended up spending too much time on the lead channel with the drive knob pretty high, pushed by a TS9. Smooth distortion and extremely biting/present with the lead channel pull-shit (treble knob) and pull-bright (lead master). I haven't brought my Mesa to jam with the guy I'm just starting a band with, but he plays a Mesa Mini Rec... I'm gonna feel bad when the lead channel on my 30-year-old, $900 amp kicks the ass of his new $2500 amp ;). Maybe I'll let him plug into my EVM12L.
Hahaha. Nice. This is one of the most aggressive amps.
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on February 05, 2014, 09:20:47 PM
Quote from: Walker done done on February 05, 2014, 09:15:56 PM
Quote from: Helping Friendly on February 05, 2014, 09:05:23 PM
I have never owned a Mesa Mark 3, but when you guys (or Trey) use the power drop switch does it switch to just using 2 tubes? Or just cut the power and still utilize all 4 tubes? Would like to know cause I feel I got closer to Trey's lead tone with just 2 tubes in play.
If you cut to Class A, it cuts out the 2 inner tubes, which in mine are 6L6's, and leaves just the EL34's on. Class A is 60W, SimulClass is 100W. The manual says they don't recommending swapping the 34's with 6L6's but I may try it. I also may replace my speakers (Tone Tubby and an Eminence commonwealth) with V30's too. We'll see.
I think half power on a 4x 6L6 MKIII is 60w. I think with EL34's its 25-30w, according to Mesa when I emailed them about this after I got my MKIII because some literature says Class is 15w!
You can download the manual in PDF form online, just type it in Google.
Quote from: Walker done done on February 05, 2014, 09:52:28 PM
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on February 05, 2014, 09:20:47 PM
Quote from: Walker done done on February 05, 2014, 09:15:56 PM
Quote from: Helping Friendly on February 05, 2014, 09:05:23 PM
I have never owned a Mesa Mark 3, but when you guys (or Trey) use the power drop switch does it switch to just using 2 tubes? Or just cut the power and still utilize all 4 tubes? Would like to know cause I feel I got closer to Trey's lead tone with just 2 tubes in play.
If you cut to Class A, it cuts out the 2 inner tubes, which in mine are 6L6's, and leaves just the EL34's on. Class A is 60W, SimulClass is 100W. The manual says they don't recommending swapping the 34's with 6L6's but I may try it. I also may replace my speakers (Tone Tubby and an Eminence commonwealth) with V30's too. We'll see.
I think half power on a 4x 6L6 MKIII is 60w. I think with EL34's its 25-30w, according to Mesa when I emailed them about this after I got my MKIII because some literature says Class is 15w!
You can download the manual in PDF form online, just type it in Google.
Yep - Mesa MKIII Manual:
QuoteTUBE SWITCH
This is the "Class A/Simul-Class" switch or the "60/100" watt switch, depending on amplifier type. In the Simul-Class amplifiers the
power (before clip) is much less in the Class A position - mere 15 watts. But the unique way the system is wired allows you to achieve a
much greater degree of power tube distortion than with most other amplifiers ... and it is still very loud! In Class A, only the outside
(outer left & outer right) pair of tubes - the EL-34's will be on. The inner pair - which are 6L6's - will also be turned on when the switch is
in the Simul-Class position. In addition to this obvious difference, the biasing and control circuitry of the socket pairs are radically
different ... and this is the heart of the now famous (and patented) Simul-Class circuitry. It is worth noting that almost all of the major
players who have gone over to Boogie have chosen the Simul-Class power design!
NOTE: In the past, MESA/Boogie advertised the "interchangeable power tubes" feature of the Mark III Simul-Class. We told players
that they could use either EL-34's or 6L6's in the outer (Class A) power sockets. However, in recent years we've observed a much
greater reliability factor with the use of EL-34's in these outer sockets, with much fewer incidents of tube failure. Therefore, today we
strongly recommend using EL-34's in the outer sockets and 6L6's in the inner sockets of your Simul-Class Boogie.
But when I emailed Mesa about the wattage on my Red Stripe:
Quote...using two EL34’s on the two outside positions and running the amp in Class A you will be running about 25-30 watts and in Simul-Class you would be looking at more like 75-80watts. Regardless it’s a loud 25-30 watts when running just the Class A.
The 60w setting is only on the non-simulclass amps with 4x 6L6 power tubes. Its the "half power" setting that only uses 2 6L6's.
However, some Simul-Class amps are mislabeled and say "full power" vs "half power" rather than "simul-class" vs. "class-A." I think this mislabeling only occurred on long chassis amps. Long chassis amps, like Trey's, has the reverb knob on the front, but from the back of Trey's amp, you can see he has 4 6L6 tubes, so it seem likely he has a non-simulclass amp running in the 60w half-power setting (2 6L6's). However, its possible his is a mislabeled simulclass amp and he is simply running 6L6's in the EL34 slots.
One more caveat - I think the MKIII Green Stripe amps (the last run of MKIII's) switched the "Class A" EL34's from functioning as triodes (which is why they are less efficient their the full capacity) to pentodes for a 10w bump.
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on February 06, 2014, 08:48:34 AM
Quote from: Walker done done on February 05, 2014, 09:52:28 PM
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on February 05, 2014, 09:20:47 PM
Quote from: Walker done done on February 05, 2014, 09:15:56 PM
Quote from: Helping Friendly on February 05, 2014, 09:05:23 PM
I have never owned a Mesa Mark 3, but when you guys (or Trey) use the power drop switch does it switch to just using 2 tubes? Or just cut the power and still utilize all 4 tubes? Would like to know cause I feel I got closer to Trey's lead tone with just 2 tubes in play.
If you cut to Class A, it cuts out the 2 inner tubes, which in mine are 6L6's, and leaves just the EL34's on. Class A is 60W, SimulClass is 100W. The manual says they don't recommending swapping the 34's with 6L6's but I may try it. I also may replace my speakers (Tone Tubby and an Eminence commonwealth) with V30's too. We'll see.
I think half power on a 4x 6L6 MKIII is 60w. I think with EL34's its 25-30w, according to Mesa when I emailed them about this after I got my MKIII because some literature says Class is 15w!
You can download the manual in PDF form online, just type it in Google.
Yep - Mesa MKIII Manual:
QuoteTUBE SWITCH
This is the "Class A/Simul-Class" switch or the "60/100" watt switch, depending on amplifier type. In the Simul-Class amplifiers the
power (before clip) is much less in the Class A position - mere 15 watts. But the unique way the system is wired allows you to achieve a
much greater degree of power tube distortion than with most other amplifiers ... and it is still very loud! In Class A, only the outside
(outer left & outer right) pair of tubes - the EL-34's will be on. The inner pair - which are 6L6's - will also be turned on when the switch is
in the Simul-Class position. In addition to this obvious difference, the biasing and control circuitry of the socket pairs are radically
different ... and this is the heart of the now famous (and patented) Simul-Class circuitry. It is worth noting that almost all of the major
players who have gone over to Boogie have chosen the Simul-Class power design!
NOTE: In the past, MESA/Boogie advertised the "interchangeable power tubes" feature of the Mark III Simul-Class. We told players
that they could use either EL-34's or 6L6's in the outer (Class A) power sockets. However, in recent years we've observed a much
greater reliability factor with the use of EL-34's in these outer sockets, with much fewer incidents of tube failure. Therefore, today we
strongly recommend using EL-34's in the outer sockets and 6L6's in the inner sockets of your Simul-Class Boogie.
But when I emailed Mesa about the wattage on my Red Stripe:
Quote...using two EL34's on the two outside positions and running the amp in Class A you will be running about 25-30 watts and in Simul-Class you would be looking at more like 75-80watts. Regardless it's a loud 25-30 watts when running just the Class A.
The 60w setting is only on the non-simulclass amps with 4x 6L6 power tubes. Its the "half power" setting that only uses 2 6L6's.
However, some Simul-Class amps are mislabeled and say "full power" vs "half power" rather than "simul-class" vs. "class-A." I think this mislabeling only occurred on long chassis amps. Long chassis amps, like Trey's, has the reverb knob on the front, but from the back of Trey's amp, you can see he has 4 6L6 tubes, so it seem likely he has a non-simulclass amp running in the 60w half-power setting (2 6L6's). However, its possible his is a mislabeled simulclass amp and he is simply running 6L6's in the EL34 slots.
One more caveat - I think the MKIII Green Stripe amps (the last run of MKIII's) switched the "Class A" EL34's from functioning as triodes (which is why they are less efficient their the full capacity) to pentodes for a 10w bump.
This is all great info!! I am learning alot from y'all