Hey guys! So I recently had the coil tap and series/parallel options added to my PRS. However, the tech used push/pull pots rather than mini-switches. At the time I thought no big deal, but now as I'm playing it's alot more of a pain in the ass using the push/pulls. They are harder to pull out when playing, and I can't help but turning the volume up and down when I do pull them out. I can't find any diagrams that use the switches. I found one on guitarelectronics.com but it's missing the tone pot. Can anyone help me out with a good diagram? I know this was posted on here along time ago, and was just wondering if anyone has come across anything. Thanks all!!
Quote from: TheSeeker on September 29, 2013, 02:20:28 PM
Hey guys! So I recently had the coil tap and series/parallel options added to my PRS. However, the tech used push/pull pots rather than mini-switches. At the time I thought no big deal, but now as I'm playing it's alot more of a pain in the ass using the push/pulls. They are harder to pull out when playing, and I can't help but turning the volume up and down when I do pull them out. I can't find any diagrams that use the switches. I found one on guitarelectronics.com but it's missing the tone pot. Can anyone help me out with a good diagram? I know this was posted on here along time ago, and was just wondering if anyone has come across anything. Thanks all!!
What a coincidence man, I just ordered two DPDT switches for this mod. I had to swap the volume pot and pickup selector and my push-pull for the coil drop was getting squirrelly so kinda figured why not. I will still use the tone pot just deactivate the push-pull option. You need On-On switches with single throw double pole option. I got mine off stewmac.com and some heat sinks and insulated tubing.
I found a wiring diagram with the correct colors for my JB/Jazz pups here though:
http://www.1728.org/guitar11.htm
On a related note, I was thinking of a star ground from the wire going to the bridge. Is there a better alternative? I did the back of the pot thing but since installing fresh ones I don't want to burn them out.
It's permanent but I think in the long run it will be very cool. I was going to put the switches in between the pickup selector and the volume! Using the tubing I think I can make it nice and organzied despite all the wires. The star ground is my biggest concern though. To those who've worked on their guitar electronics, pro;'s and cons of this method?
Looks like back of the pot is the easiest to do, Ill just pick up a few cheap from work if I burn one. Seems easy enough once I figured out the grounding issue. The parts show up Wednesday and I will have ample time to work on it over the weekend. Will post pictures for those interested.
Yeah dude, let me know how it goes for you. I just opened up the back of my guitar, and it's got some crazy NASA wiring goin on...lol. I'm afraid to touch it. That diagram you showed seems simple enough...I'm just not that confident in myself to do it. These push/pulls are driving me crazy though. What did that diagram mean by "it will only work with a pickup whose cover isn't permanantly grounded"?
Quote from: TheSeeker on October 01, 2013, 06:51:02 PM
Yeah dude, let me know how it goes for you. I just opened up the back of my guitar, and it's got some crazy NASA wiring goin on...lol. I'm afraid to touch it. That diagram you showed seems simple enough...I'm just not that confident in myself to do it. These push/pulls are driving me crazy though. What did that diagram mean by "it will only work with a pickup whose cover isn't permanantly grounded"?
I think it means the wires that come from the pup to the back of the potentiometer can be used as opposed to being permanently wired to something else so I think we're ok. A lot of those wires are ground wires keep in mind. I did the pup swap on my guitar but honestly man it doesn't seem too brain-busting. I just plan on taking my time and not getting baked and I anticipate it will go pretty smoothly!
I'll probably give it a go next week...I'll just take a picture of how it's wired now, just in case I screw something up. Another thing you may want to add (since you'll be playing in it's guts anyway) is a killswitch. I've got one on mine and you can do some pretty cool shit with it. Whammy+sustain+delay+killswitch = hours of fun!!
Quote from: TheSeeker on October 01, 2013, 08:20:47 PM
I'll probably give it a go next week...I'll just take a picture of how it's wired now, just in case I screw something up. Another thing you may want to add (since you'll be playing in it's guts anyway) is a killswitch. I've got one on mine and you can do some pretty cool shit with it. Whammy+sustain+delay+killswitch = hours of fun!!
I was considering that, but I'd have to drill another hole into the top which I am already a bit perplexed about as the orientation of the pots might be tricky due to space. I picked up plenty of shrink wrap cable and electrical tape so I don't short anything though which may help. Excited to get this going but it will probably be a loooong endeavor.
Instead of the humbucker>coil tap two way switch, I have a 3 way switch that also includes parallel.
So coil tap sends one of the coils in the humbucker to ground so you only have a single coil working.
Humbucker has the two coils in series.
Parallel, no big surprise, has the two coils in series with each other.
Parallel is quieter and warmer than coil tap, but not as fat as the series/humbucker setting. I prefer the sound of coil-tap, but parallel is almost as good at avoiding 60hz noise as humbuckers, so if your playing somewhere with a lot of interference and you want a single-coil-like sound, parallel is a nice option.
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on October 02, 2013, 09:26:34 AM
Instead of the humbucker>coil tap two way switch, I have a 3 way switch that also includes parallel.
So coil tap sends one of the coils in the humbucker to ground so you only have a single coil working.
Humbucker has the two coils in series.
Parallel, no big surprise, has the two coils in series with each other.
Parallel is quieter and warmer than coil tap, but not as fat as the series/humbucker setting. I prefer the sound of coil-tap, but parallel is almost as good at avoiding 60hz noise as humbuckers, so if your playing somewhere with a lot of interference and you want a single-coil-like sound, parallel is a nice option.
So you have one 3 way switch? I may decide to add copper tape to the inside of the guitar for shielding purposes. from what I understand, having the coil tap in parallel does the humbuck thing while retaining a single coilish tone?
Quote from: fulltone1989 on October 02, 2013, 10:52:18 AM
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on October 02, 2013, 09:26:34 AM
Instead of the humbucker>coil tap two way switch, I have a 3 way switch that also includes parallel.
So coil tap sends one of the coils in the humbucker to ground so you only have a single coil working.
Humbucker has the two coils in series.
Parallel, no big surprise, has the two coils in series with each other.
Parallel is quieter and warmer than coil tap, but not as fat as the series/humbucker setting. I prefer the sound of coil-tap, but parallel is almost as good at avoiding 60hz noise as humbuckers, so if your playing somewhere with a lot of interference and you want a single-coil-like sound, parallel is a nice option.
So you have one 3 way switch? I may decide to add copper tape to the inside of the guitar for shielding purposes. from what I understand, having the coil tap in parallel does the humbuck thing while retaining a single coilish tone?
Yeah - instead of a two way (coil-tap / bucker) switch, I have a three way (coil-tap, bucker, parallel) switch.
The parallel setting I mentioned does a good job at bucking noise.
If I had the chance, I would definitely add copper tape (or something similar) to the inside of my guitar.
I definitely prefer the tone of the coil-tap over parallel, but the 60hz hum is annoying.
Coil-Tap, bridge pickup into the lower-gain TS9 gets some great clean tones for tunes like Dirt and the Beatles cover Cry Baby Cry.
Good to know! I soldered up the grounds and pots and got everything ready for the home stretch after work tonight. Realized that my soldering pencil sucks terribly (covered in shit, my fault) so I ordered a quality station which arrives tonight, can't wait to have the right tool for the job! I'll be drilling the holes tonight, so keep me in your thoughts. I had the split wired up in my guitar before which sounded awesome with a low TS, I agree entirely!
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on October 02, 2013, 03:26:23 PM
Quote from: fulltone1989 on October 02, 2013, 10:52:18 AM
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on October 02, 2013, 09:26:34 AM
Instead of the humbucker>coil tap two way switch, I have a 3 way switch that also includes parallel.
So coil tap sends one of the coils in the humbucker to ground so you only have a single coil working.
Humbucker has the two coils in series.
Parallel, no big surprise, has the two coils in series with each other.
Parallel is quieter and warmer than coil tap, but not as fat as the series/humbucker setting. I prefer the sound of coil-tap, but parallel is almost as good at avoiding 60hz noise as humbuckers, so if your playing somewhere with a lot of interference and you want a single-coil-like sound, parallel is a nice option.
So you have one 3 way switch? I may decide to add copper tape to the inside of the guitar for shielding purposes. from what I understand, having the coil tap in parallel does the humbuck thing while retaining a single coilish tone?
Yeah - instead of a two way (coil-tap / bucker) switch, I have a three way (coil-tap, bucker, parallel) switch.
The parallel setting I mentioned does a good job at bucking noise.
If I had the chance, I would definitely add copper tape (or something similar) to the inside of my guitar.
I definitely prefer the tone of the coil-tap over parallel, but the 60hz hum is annoying.
Coil-Tap, bridge pickup into the lower-gain TS9 gets some great clean tones for tunes like Dirt and the Beatles cover Cry Baby Cry.
Also, I am drilling the holes but for other stuff I found that going backwards slowly with a drill bit or using a hand reamer is the way to go to not damage the finish. It still may chip a tad but the washer covers the hole. Also go from top to back and use painters tape to mark where your holes are going to be. I hope this helps, going to put some serious time in for the project tonight and I hope to have some exciting news for all of y'all.
Quote from: fulltone1989 on October 03, 2013, 01:07:40 PM
Also, I am drilling the holes but for other stuff I found that going backwards slowly with a drill bit or using a hand reamer is the way to go to not damage the finish. It still may chip a tad but the washer covers the hole. Also go from top to back and use painters tape to mark where your holes are going to be. I hope this helps, going to put some serious time in for the project tonight and I hope to have some exciting news for all of y'all.
Well after testing it everything works - I think. I'll take a video tomorrow!
Sweet dude!! I just finished mine today, and it everything was a success! First run was a failure, second run was a failure, third run and disco! I soldered the pots wrong, and then my tone cap was bad. Re-soldered pots, replaced cap, and it sounds awesome!!
Quote from: TheSeeker on October 06, 2013, 12:01:19 AM
Sweet dude!! I just finished mine today, and it everything was a success! First run was a failure, second run was a failure, third run and disco! I soldered the pots wrong, and then my tone cap was bad. Re-soldered pots, replaced cap, and it sounds awesome!!
Sick! glad to hear it works! The proud feeling of actually is equally awesome to the sonic textures. The pots were the most difficult for me too, and I was very surprised that the switches soldered up so easy and the splices went fine. I have a ton of shrink wrap tubing I should've used though. Did you use a multimeter to test as you go? Now that I have everything wired up I am inclined to go back in during the winter and reorganize it. Another huge pain for me was stripping leads from the pickups. I should try a pair of small nail clippers or scissors next time. The next project I have though is repairing the extra hole I drilled in the top lol but I have a master plan.
Quote from: fulltone1989 on October 06, 2013, 11:22:23 AM
Quote from: TheSeeker on October 06, 2013, 12:01:19 AM
Sweet dude!! I just finished mine today, and it everything was a success! First run was a failure, second run was a failure, third run and disco! I soldered the pots wrong, and then my tone cap was bad. Re-soldered pots, replaced cap, and it sounds awesome!!
Sick! glad to hear it works! The proud feeling of actually is equally awesome to the sonic textures. The pots were the most difficult for me too, and I was very surprised that the switches soldered up so easy and the splices went fine. I have a ton of shrink wrap tubing I should've used though. Did you use a multimeter to test as you go? Now that I have everything wired up I am inclined to go back in during the winter and reorganize it. Another huge pain for me was stripping leads from the pickups. I should try a pair of small nail clippers or scissors next time. The next project I have though is repairing the extra hole I drilled in the top lol but I have a master plan.
Wire strippers seem to range from about $5-$25 at a hardware store. Nail clippers? Lol. I've probably tried similar things, but wire clippers work much better.
Quote from: Heady Jam Fan on October 06, 2013, 03:48:51 PM
Quote from: fulltone1989 on October 06, 2013, 11:22:23 AM
Quote from: TheSeeker on October 06, 2013, 12:01:19 AM
Sweet dude!! I just finished mine today, and it everything was a success! First run was a failure, second run was a failure, third run and disco! I soldered the pots wrong, and then my tone cap was bad. Re-soldered pots, replaced cap, and it sounds awesome!!
Sick! glad to hear it works! The proud feeling of actually is equally awesome to the sonic textures. The pots were the most difficult for me too, and I was very surprised that the switches soldered up so easy and the splices went fine. I have a ton of shrink wrap tubing I should've used though. Did you use a multimeter to test as you go? Now that I have everything wired up I am inclined to go back in during the winter and reorganize it. Another huge pain for me was stripping leads from the pickups. I should try a pair of small nail clippers or scissors next time. The next project I have though is repairing the extra hole I drilled in the top lol but I have a master plan.
Wire strippers seem to range from about $5-$25 at a hardware store. Nail clippers? Lol. I've probably tried similar things, but wire clippers work much better.
I know, I have a few different sets. The leads from the pickups are just very small in diameter and it's easy to cut them when you're trying to strip IMHO
Quote from: fulltone1989 on October 06, 2013, 11:22:23 AM
Quote from: TheSeeker on October 06, 2013, 12:01:19 AM
Sweet dude!! I just finished mine today, and it everything was a success! First run was a failure, second run was a failure, third run and disco! I soldered the pots wrong, and then my tone cap was bad. Re-soldered pots, replaced cap, and it sounds awesome!!
Sick! glad to hear it works! The proud feeling of actually is equally awesome to the sonic textures. The pots were the most difficult for me too, and I was very surprised that the switches soldered up so easy and the splices went fine. I have a ton of shrink wrap tubing I should've used though. Did you use a multimeter to test as you go? Now that I have everything wired up I am inclined to go back in during the winter and reorganize it. Another huge pain for me was stripping leads from the pickups. I should try a pair of small nail clippers or scissors next time. The next project I have though is repairing the extra hole I drilled in the top lol but I have a master plan.
I too am gonna go back and reorganize. I was actually surprised at how good I was able to solder everything..I don't have a whole lot of experience with that. Like Heady said, I just used wire cutters but I would like to get a pairof wire strippers that is small enough for those leads. Also, I used one of my old push/pulls for the kill switch instead of trying to cram another switch in the caivity.
Quote from: TheSeeker on October 07, 2013, 06:57:29 AM
Quote from: fulltone1989 on October 06, 2013, 11:22:23 AM
Quote from: TheSeeker on October 06, 2013, 12:01:19 AM
Sweet dude!! I just finished mine today, and it everything was a success! First run was a failure, second run was a failure, third run and disco! I soldered the pots wrong, and then my tone cap was bad. Re-soldered pots, replaced cap, and it sounds awesome!!
Sick! glad to hear it works! The proud feeling of actually is equally awesome to the sonic textures. The pots were the most difficult for me too, and I was very surprised that the switches soldered up so easy and the splices went fine. I have a ton of shrink wrap tubing I should've used though. Did you use a multimeter to test as you go? Now that I have everything wired up I am inclined to go back in during the winter and reorganize it. Another huge pain for me was stripping leads from the pickups. I should try a pair of small nail clippers or scissors next time. The next project I have though is repairing the extra hole I drilled in the top lol but I have a master plan.
I too am gonna go back and reorganize. I was actually surprised at how good I was able to solder everything..I don't have a whole lot of experience with that. Like Heady said, I just used wire cutters but I would like to get a pairof wire strippers that is small enough for those leads. Also, I used one of my old push/pulls for the kill switch instead of trying to cram another switch in the caivity.
I definitely think it'll cut down on noise. I'm gonna find a time to do that this winter where I can add copper tape to all the cavities, and since the copper is conductive I can ground to that too instead of sending like 6 wires to the back of my volume pot hahah. Yeah wire cutters are a must just having the size for those small leads wasn't an option so scoring was tough. It's pretty easy I guess I just made sure I had a clean tip, tinned everything I soldered, and used heat sinks for the pots. Stewmac.com is my new favorite place. So do you have a tone knob?
I think my next project will be some nice patch cables. Doing the Lava Solderless right now but they like to break right before a show..
Yeah I have a tone knob...I had to replace the cap, and i use the push/pull on the tone for my kill switch. I use the george L patch cables and haven't had any problems. I have a george l instrument cable, but I dont really like it b/c it's way too stiff. I'm in the market for a good cable that has right angles on both ends....any suggestions?
Quote from: TheSeeker on October 07, 2013, 12:05:48 PM
Yeah I have a tone knob...I had to replace the cap, and i use the push/pull on the tone for my kill switch. I use the george L patch cables and haven't had any problems. I have a george l instrument cable, but I dont really like it b/c it's way too stiff. I'm in the market for a good cable that has right angles on both ends....any suggestions?
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Oh I see now, great thinking! I have a 0.1 mpf or w/e cap in there I installed and it sounds like a cocked wah when engaged so Im not sure if I like it. I prefer a smooth taper down. I am also using the push pull bc I didn't have the correct size bit to enlarge the hole for the shaft. Never tried the george L's. I'd suggest some Mogami wire that has some thin shielding and the Neutrik jacks and you just solder them together, saves a lot of money.
For your comedic enjoyment. The technique I talked about worked, I just missed my mark!
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg188/Thomas_MacLennan/IMG_0766_zpsd1bcd593.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/Thomas_MacLennan/media/IMG_0766_zpsd1bcd593.jpg.html)
Haha, oops!! It's all good man...just think up a good story of why that hole is there..lol. How do you like that bridge? I was thinking about a getting a tonepros one as well. I was thinking about your tone....how do you have the cap soldered? I have mine connecting to the middle terminal and grounded to the back of the pot, and it sounds fine. At first I had like it showed on that diagram, and it sounded like crap. I think my cap is a .47. What was that cap on the volume for? I took it off and didn't hear any difference.
Quote from: TheSeeker on October 08, 2013, 07:06:47 AM
Haha, oops!! It's all good man...just think up a good story of why that hole is there..lol. How do you like that bridge? I was thinking about a getting a tonepros one as well. I was thinking about your tone....how do you have the cap soldered? I have mine connecting to the middle terminal and grounded to the back of the pot, and it sounds fine. At first I had like it showed on that diagram, and it sounded like crap. I think my cap is a .47. What was that cap on the volume for? I took it off and didn't hear any difference.
I've been thinking, so far the best I have is a mojo hole. The tonepros bridge is great, the intonation stays pretty solid anyways but it's just very nice being able to swap strings without having to remember your action settings. I didn't try it with the stock bridge so I can't really comment on how it sustains and such. To be honest I don't think it hugely matters, I just followed the diagram on this site: http://www.1728.org/guitar11.htm and soldered to the 3rd terminal and did the side of the pot which is still ground as far as I know. When I go back in to clean up I will install a .47, I have a 0.1 for a strat in there now because it's the only thing my work had at the time and being guitarists we're incredibly impatient. I have to wait 9 months for a King of Tone! I didn't have a cap on my volume, all a cap does it attenuate the high frequencies to ground. Do you still have the cap? It may be a treble bleed.