I've finally decided to give up on the cheap patch cables and invest in something that doesn't have a dozen externalities. What brands do you guys suggest for patch cables? I'm not necessarily looking expensive custom cables, just something that is soldered like Monster Cables but not as expensive. Heard some people dogging the George L's on the internet, but then saw the recent post here about Trey using George L's instrument cable. Anyone have some insight or personal reviews of George L's or whatever might be a substitute to that or Monster?
George L's are a quality instrument cable, for sure. My experience is that over time the connection can wear and you have to make a new one. This is the drawback from doing solderless cables. It wouldn't hurt to invest in a cable tester if you are looking at this avenue.
Quote from: fluffhead4020 on October 22, 2013, 12:13:32 AM
I've finally decided to give up on the cheap patch cables and invest in something that doesn't have a dozen externalities. What brands do you guys suggest for patch cables? I'm not necessarily looking expensive custom cables, just something that is soldered like Monster Cables but not as expensive. Heard some people dogging the George L's on the internet, but then saw the recent post here about Trey using George L's instrument cable. Anyone have some insight or personal reviews of George L's or whatever might be a substitute to that or Monster?
Do you have a working knowledge of soldering? You can make Mogami quality patch cables on the cheap. There are GLS pancake plugs on Amazon, 20/pk for $30.00 and I just went to redco.com and ordered bulk Mogami 2425 and 2301 (I think that's the part #) cable for llike .45 cents a foot and soldering them up is pretty easy. Waiting on some new additions before I finish it all up though. I don't have any prejudice on the George L's, they work for many people. I have used the Lava ELC solderless in the past and those work good as long as you follow youtubes on how to make gooduns. Unless your patch cable is a Walmarty thing, there's only so many ways to go about making them and the $50 cable won't necessarily be better than the $20 cable IMHO. If you have any questionsabout the DIY route PM me!
As far as patch cables go, I use George L's and love them! I also have a George L instrument cable, and while it's a good cable it is very stiff. I would def recommend George l for patch, but get something else for instrument.
I don't have that much experience with soldering, but shouldn't have a problem with YouTube and google. If I were to go the route of soldering my own, would the Mogami kit be about the same quality and consistency of George L (granted, I didn't fuck anything up)?
Cause Id like a makeover and replace every patch cable(about 15), so I guess making my own would be cost efficient. But am I sacrificing quality?
Quote from: fluffhead4020 on October 22, 2013, 12:01:14 PM
I don't have that much experience with soldering, but shouldn't have a problem with YouTube and google. If I were to go the route of soldering my own, would the Mogami kit be about the same quality and consistency of George L (granted, I didn't fuck anything up)?
Cause Id like a makeover and replace every patch cable(about 15), so I guess making my own would be cost efficient. But am I sacrificing quality?
I think Mogami's are awesome for that price. Getting them at GC for 54.99 for an 18 ft guitar lead is kinda wacky though. I used GLS pancake jacks and those are good for me at least, solid terminals to wrap your hot and cold wires around prior to soldering. All depends on your board space though. If you do it right (No cold joints, stripped correctly) I think it's as good as anything and ABing them I didn't notice a difference. The 2425 is a big thicker than the 2301 and those are more susceptible to becoming bad. The plus side is that you can fix them though. By doing the DIY think you can cut up a "broken cable" and resolder patch cables. There's just a learning curve to doing it, when I first started I burned through a few new jacks. It's fun and rewarding though! I have not tried George L's but they're definitely popular. When you get good enough at making your own you can sell them on TGP, I have not done so but I know some people who do. It's kind of like when people bring amps to a tech for a speaker swap.
Yeah I think I'll pick up some of those Mogami's and give it a run. Surely with some good videos on the internet, I won't have a problem. Thanks for the help, guys.
I would definitely recommend soldering your own patch cables (or buying pre-soldered). I've read too many horror stories on TGP to consider going solderless. I use Evidence Audio cables with pancake jacks and haven't looked back! Unfortunately, the company I purchased the pre-soldered cables through is no longer around (website is no longer up at least) but soldered cables shouldn't fail!
Learning new stuf is great! Tell your guitar friends in town and maybe you can break even or at least get close.
+1 for making them yourself!
when shopping for bulk cable, look for full braided shield, a conductive layer between shield and center to reduce microphonics, and the lowest capacitance per foot you can find. IMO, Mogami cable is overpriced, and their specs aren't as good as some others. They DO, however, have some magic mojo. 8)
I just researched this, as I'm about to make up a big batch of patch cables for sale. There's a cable by Gepco for sale at redco, .20 cents cheaper than mogami or my go-to, Canare GS-6, that has lower capacitiance (i.e. less tone-suck) than either of the others, plus a DOUBLE braided shield. Great value there.
For plugs, you've got to use something that'll work with your setup, obviously... pancakes take up less space, but i prefer something with a better strain relief. My go-to is the Neutrik NP2RX. A little pricey, and worth comparison shopping. But they are absolutely bulletproof, with the best-designed strain relief I've ever seen. I wouldn't hesitate to offer a lifetime warranty on any cable made with those connectors. Even available with gold-plated contacts, if you're into bling ;)
Hosa pancakes for floor patching.... so good. I use a couple 3 foot pancakes too.
Quote from: CaptainPeyote on February 11, 2014, 10:15:33 PM
+1 for making them yourself!
when shopping for bulk cable, look for full braided shield, a conductive layer between shield and center to reduce microphonics, and the lowest capacitance per foot you can find. IMO, Mogami cable is overpriced, and their specs aren't as good as some others. They DO, however, have some magic mojo. 8)
I just researched this, as I'm about to make up a big batch of patch cables for sale. There's a cable by Gepco for sale at redco, .20 cents cheaper than mogami or my go-to, Canare GS-6, that has lower capacitiance (i.e. less tone-suck) than either of the others, plus a DOUBLE braided shield. Great value there.
For plugs, you've got to use something that'll work with your setup, obviously... pancakes take up less space, but i prefer something with a better strain relief. My go-to is the Neutrik NP2RX. A little pricey, and worth comparison shopping. But they are absolutely bulletproof, with the best-designed strain relief I've ever seen. I wouldn't hesitate to offer a lifetime warranty on any cable made with those connectors. Even available with gold-plated contacts, if you're into bling ;)
I'm actually redoing my board and looking for some high quality cable myself. Do you have the exact model on these?
I don't mean to intrude but I found the Mogami 2524 (or 2425 I can never remember) and the 2319. 2319 will be more flexible but with the less resistance Captain is talking about. They both sound great though but I preferred the 2524 when making mine!
I have both 'mediocre' Hosa and Lava patch cables.
For instrument cables, I will say my Lava and Mogami sound better than Hosa.
For patch cables, I wish I hadn't bought into the TGP hype to be honest. I was busy at the time and got the pre-soldered Lava Mini ELC w/ Right Angle Hicon Jacks (something like that), which was stupid of me because the soldering was crappy - the leads weren't tinned and quickly stray wires started shorting against the inside of the jacks. I switched back to my Hosa patch cables, which sounded just as good for a short run between buffered pedals. I recently resoldered a bunch of patch cables including my Lava's.
Quote from: Helping Friendly on February 12, 2014, 06:56:14 PMI'm actually redoing my board and looking for some high quality cable myself. Do you have the exact model on these?
my new cable of choice is the Gepco XB20UB. check the specs, it's a mogami killer for sure. http://www.redco.com/Gepco-XB20UB.html
and here are my preferred connectors, though many kinds will certainly do: http://www.markertek.com/Connectors-Adapters/Audio-Connectors/1-4in-Phone-Connectors/Neutrik-USA-Inc/NP2RX.xhtml?utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=googlebase&cvsfa=3786&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=4e50325258&gclid=CMa40Z2wyLwCFQsSMwodlnsARA
probably not worth springing for the gold plating, as gold plating only helps if BOTH connectors are gold. otherwise, you're better off sticking with nickel, which the connectors in your amp and pedals are almost certainly plated with.
Good stuff breh.. I was debating on the Lava Ultramafic which seems to have a lower (thicker) AWG than the Gepco, but the Gepco still has a lower Capacitance and more shielding. Would be cool to A/B them.
Quote from: Helping Friendly on February 13, 2014, 08:02:31 PM
Good stuff breh.. I was debating on the Lava Ultramafic which seems to have a lower (thicker) AWG than the Gepco, but the Gepco still has a lower Capacitance and more shielding. Would be cool to A/B them.
I just bought some man thanks! Do you know what diameter heat shrink I'm gona need?