Equator Guitar Owners

[trunkyfunk]

Wattup yall. I own an older equator standard, when David was still making like an acoustic, and have been trying to brighten the thing up. The v30's was a huge step in the right direction, but still missing that almost metalicky pop that Trey gets.
Curious if anyone has made and or bought a fixed intonation brass saddle similar to the DOC.
From research seems as though this was a huge improvement on attack and tone clarity from Doc 1 to Doc 2 and so on. Curious why I havent seen more brass saddles out there on equators?

[trunkyfunk]

I have seen countless of posts about: pedals, picks, amps, speakers, and strings all directed at trying to find Trey's tone. Just a little curious about starting at a guitars most fundamental tonal properties, nut and bridge saddle. Scale length is huge when added all together. No expert, but this is what I have gathered over the years. Looking to replace my equator bone bridge with a brass one. I know RM Olson makes one, but not the same width as the Doc. Looks to be 3/16" wide.

[seriesnuns]

I own an equator and I've thought about replacing the bone.

A good luthier should be able to pull the bone out your bridge piece and make brass inserts and file them.

[seriesnuns]

Also my equator wasn't bright either until I changed the wiring and pickups.

I put in Lollar and mini switches and it changed the tone significantly from 2 wire SD 59 that came from David.

[Helping Friendly]

I have thought about the saddles influence on my last archtop as well. I've always wondered if it would improve the bite on the shorter scale. Now that I have the longer scale I haven't thought about it as much. But it's always in the back of my mind.

I could be wrong but I think those saddles Olson sells are a different material.  They are brass. And alot of people assume Docs have brass saddles. But I was under the impression Paul uses phosphor bronze which is what acoustic guitar stings are made of wrapped around steel. Now if you ever compared brass strings vs phosphor bronze strings on an acoustic there is a big difference imo. Phosphor sounds 100% superior. Again my opinion.
And again, don't quote my on this. Lol

[trunkyfunk]

Also my equator wasn't bright either until I changed the wiring and pickups.

I put in Lollar and mini switches and it changed the tone significantly from 2 wire SD 59 that came from David.

Did you put Lollar imperials? How exactly were they wired?

Concerned about pulling the bone and putting in the bronze....Sure it would be fine, but David has a thinner Saddle than a doc, and I swear it bows slightly in the center. Part of me feels as though the saddle needs to be thicker like Pauls', as do not bow slightly when plucked.

[Helping Friendly]

You can buy a chunk of high quality AAA phosphor bronze and bring it to a good luthier to carve out a saddle to put where the bone was. I was about to do that and then I bought a new Taylor. I'm still going to do it just not right now. So that means you have to get it done first and tell me how it goes! Haha JK

[trunkyfunk]

I have thought about the saddles influence on my last archtop as well. I've always wondered if it would improve the bite on the shorter scale. Now that I have the longer scale I haven't thought about it as much. But it's always in the back of my mind.

I could be wrong but I think those saddles Olson sells are a different material.  They are brass. And alot of people assume Docs have brass saddles. But I was under the impression Paul uses phosphor bronze which is what acoustic guitar stings are made of wrapped around steel. Now if you ever compared brass strings vs phosphor bronze strings on an acoustic there is a big difference imo. Phosphor sounds 100% superior. Again my opinion.
And again, don't quote my on this. Lol

Double checked Pauls' site....he lists brass. Like the idea of phosphor. I have also considered trying to fit a PRS nut on there. Sounds as though a PRS nut would also help in brightening up the overall tone.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3o2FHxz9O8

[Helping Friendly]

You can buy a chunk of high quality AAA phosphor bronze and bring it to a good luthier to carve out a saddle to put where the bone was. I was about to do that and then I bought a new Taylor. I'm still going to do it just not right now. So that means you have to get it done first and tell me how it goes! Haha JK

It shouldn't be that much harder for a luthier to just make a whole new bridge out of ebony and then the saddle as well. Show him a picture of Paul's and say you want a replica. Much easier than replicating a whole Doc

Hmm. I know I've read in multiple places it was PB. But if it says it on Paul's site then.. Yea I think I like the idea of Bronze better anyway. Lol

[Heady Jam Fan]

When I had an Artinger, Matt had used fret wire for the fixed saddle. That worked nicely. The type of material does seem to make a difference. Some bridges nowadays are made with zinc while older versions were steel, for example, and the steel ones sound far better. I agree with the idea of having a new bridge made from scratch rather than modifying the existing one. Who knows, you might want to go back to stock.

[seriesnuns]

Some googling and came across this vendor

http://www.comptonbridges.com/home

Looks like you need to send him your specs and it will be made to order. Then just get a bridge base from his vendor....

[afountas]

I am thinking about having the bone saddles copied into brass for the Equator Standard I have.  Third Coast Guitars in Chicago would be doing the work -- quoted me $150 for materials and metalwork.  They need to hang on to the guitar to make sure to match the nut and fretboard radius correctly.  So, if anyone if buying a generic one, I would keep in mind that it probably won't fit as perfectly as it could without being setup for the actual guitar it's going on.

[trunkyfunk]

Wattup yall. Was able to touch base with Brooks Cobb, and the man does damn fine work. What appears to be the closest thing to a doc I have seen so far. He quoted me around $120 as well. Deciding to go back and forth between a local guitar tech and Brooks. Couple different ways it appears as though the radius can be set up....you can have a flat ebony piece and set the brass pieces with puddy epoxy and set final radius with the notches for the strings. Or you can have a rounded ebony piece with the brass is set in at that angle followed by the notches for the strings. The key seems to be setting the notches at an angle so the strings dont sit flat on the brass. Pauls' bridge appears to be flat and the brass matches the neck radius. Like the equator bridge, the trebble and brass sides are stepped to offset for the string width.

Another thing Paul mentioned about when Trey was looking to change up the tone between Doc 1 and Doc 2, was to bring out more "brilliance and sustain" in his notes. Excited to see if their is a difference. One final notice is the differences between the bottom pieces. As yall know there are flat bottom pieces that are in full contact with the top sheet, and their are arched pieces. It seems as though you want to stick with the arched piece, as this will increases the movement of the top sheet....aka aids in more sustain.

[Helping Friendly]

Can you guys PLEASE report back after you make the change? Some quick before and after clips would be amazing.  I'm sure there are a ton of equator owners that are curious about the upgrade. I know I am. Let us know how it effect the tone and sustain.

[Helping Friendly]

Bumpin a line here......
Did any of you guys swap the bone for brass yet? I'm dying to know the results?